Looking back: La Réunion

The island of La Réunion is a French territory in the middle of the Indian Ocean, to the east of Madagascar. Once a remote, uninhabited island, it is now home to a bustling community of Creole and French citizens. The Creole are a mix of people from Madagascar and surrounding islands, and descendants of the slaves that worked sugar cane and spices like vanilla and cinnamon. Those crops still grow on the island, although the main industry is tourism and it has military significance due to its remote location. They have other kinds of crops too, if you catch my drift. I had a chance to visit there in 2010, and made this scene on location a top the old volcanic crater on the north side, where the city of st-Denis lies. Being a top a volcanic crater gave wonderful views of the surrounding turquoise-blue-green water. The south side of the island has an active volcano that erupts every now and then. 

La Réunion house ocean view, watercolour 8 x 11" 2010 

Down closer to sea-level in the main part of the city, I made this painting of a restaurant hotel called Roland-Garros after a famous French airplane pilot. I tried to capture the volcanic jungle-covered mountain in the background with one of many palm trees blowing in the wind. It always seemed on the verge of raining here, and when it did, the rain came down heavy. 

Roland-Garros,  watercolour 8 x 11" 2010

Finally, another scene I painted on location, its the volcanic ridge line looking due south, with a spectacular sunset and powerful, rippling waves crashing in from the sea. If you look closely enough, on the right center at sea level, there is a small highway sign, because a highway actually runs along the coast line here. Hanging over the sea, it made for some harrowing driving especially when waves crashed through. When I saw this scene, I thought of "Sunrise on the Sagueny" a painting by Canadian artist Lucius R. O'Brien. I've often thought about going to the Sagueny here in Quebec and painting the same scene that O'Brien did in 1880. If I do so, it would be a night scene with stars, so "Stars on the Sagueny" or something like that. 

Intense island,  watercolour 8 x 11" 2010 

Exotic paintings from archive

About 15 years ago I visited Reunion Island, a French territory in the Indian Ocean. It is south of Seychelles, and east of Madagascar, at the end of the world! Honestly I felt crummy the whole trip due to the lengthy transit time, about 40 hours door to door via two planes and a long transfer in Paris, and then the altitude of staying on the heights of an old Volcano mountain in the main city st Denis. The whole place seemed a little unsafe with falling rocks and intense storms from the surrounding sea. This painting was done on location in the center of the island where there is a hidden valley and village famous for its flavoured rum and potent pot. 

Cloudy blue mountains, watercolour 5 x 7" cold press, 2011

This painting captures the general atmosphere of the island... a misty haze with intense colours. Looking more closely I see what appears to be aureolin yellow, I must have been still using it back then. I would have used bismuth vanadate if I was there now, although I have no desire to return. I am warming up to the idea of going to India though. 

Palm tree haze, watercolour 5 x 7" cold press, 2011

 

Down in the town, a Chinese food restaurant had this sign, I tried to copy the symbols accurately but who knows what it said. You can see in the background how intense the light was, and how most buildings had white and cream coloured plaster facades. 

Chinese food sign, watercolour 5 x 7" cold press, June 2026 

Jardin du Luxembourg

Here is an old painting I did in Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris France, 15 years ago. At the time, I used burnt sienna (PR101) in mixes, which gave a warm glow to the overcast sky and autumn trees in the mid ground. It would be nice to go back if I get the chance.  

Jardin du Luxembourg. watercolour 5 x 7" cold press, 2011

Last painting from Brazil Trip

On what we though was the last day of the trip, I did this scene of a pink flower in a shrub outside of the locked gate of the family home. It seemed to be symbolic of São Paulo, a beautiful city locked behind tall walls, barbed wire and gates. There is a massive wealth disparity here, rich people fly to work in helicopters from their luxury condos, while poor people live in brick and tin shanties. Slavery only ended towards the end of the 19th century, in 1872 there were around 1.5 million slaves out of a population of 10 million people. With about 150 years passing, the wealth inequity is nowhere near to being leveled out, so the rich people build higher walls and taller fences. You can see my paintings from a wealthy area called Indaiatuba, rated the best city in Brazil to live in, where the houses are sleek and behind gated communities. Cilei's family is approximately in the middle class, they are well off enough to have proper houses and afford good education, which has to be paid for since the public education system is underfunded. The painting was meant to show the contrast of the sturdy steel fencing with a palm tree and delicate flower in the background. 

Pink flower locked gate, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5028)

In this scene, a massive jungle tree is still visible over the top of the auto shop across the street from the family home. When Cilei's dad built the home about 45 years ago, the entire neighborhood had trees like this, and rain forest-clouds would form. It was a quiet jungle paradise. Now it is a densely populated built-up neighborhood right next to a noisy highway. But it still has the charm and great views, and most of all, its a family home full of love and camaraderie. We commented how a wealthy person living alone behind a gated community with millions of Reals to spend is perhaps not as rich as a person living day-to-day and surrounded by friends and family. All the same, we could have done without the motorcycles zooming by. 

Tall tree autoshop, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5029a)

 

Waiting in the departure gate late at night and out flight was cancelled due to mechanical problems with the airplane, better than when up in the air I guess. That meant another 5 hours of waiting in various lines to get to a hotel. The next day there was down time, so I made a few last painting, this one showing a biplane-installation, it was actually up on a pole like a monument, but I omitted the pole to make it look like it was landing. In fact, huge passenger planes were zooming by at very low altitude to land at the nearby GRU airport. Cars and a commuter train could be seen in the background. 

Biplane near hotel, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5030a)

Finally, I found a Brazilian flag to paint, seen in the center of the painting. The building had something to do with the airport, it was glass-paneled with plaster walls. So all of the Brazil paintings are up on the blog now, there was one more I did at the Buddhist temple that I added to the end of the blog here. I also scanned all of the paintings, re-uploaded the images for better quality, and corrected the typos and formatting issues I had while blogging on the phone. Back in Montreal its -17℃ and I have no desire to paint outside for the time being! Luckily it will warm up a bit this week. I will write a blog on the Brazil palette soon, there were some interesting things to talk about regarding paints. It was a good trip all in all with a bit of vacation, visiting, and working remotely all the while, and I have a sun tan to show for it! 

Brazil flag near hotel, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5031a)

Cat nap and scenes around the family house

Up on the laundry platform, at the top of the spiral staircase, the cat was having a nap. Some of my laundry was up there drying, although there was not a whole lot of sun the last few days, it rained profusely. You can also see the concrete walls painted cobalt blue with orange tiling, and the outdoor laundry room under the platform. 

Cat nap, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5027a)

 

In front of the family home there is a very steep road in bad shape, on the other side they built up a bunch of auto-shops and car supplier businesses. This yellow-leaf tree was quite impressive against the greyish background. It made for a very textural scene. 

Yellow tree, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5005b)

 

Near the end of the trip and I had not used all of the 8 x 10" that I brought. This one shows more of the roof tops visible from the bedroom window. Its an impressive array of angles, textures and colours. When it rains, these roofs must be completely leak-proof, otherwise the houses would flood. Up in the top left you see some of the mega-condo complex they built over the last 3 years. 

More roof tops, 8 x 10" watercolour, February 2026 

 

 

The Park Ipe neighborhood is centered on a sports-park, now its full of basketball, volleyball, small soccer pitches, and tennis courts.  Here you see a quick painting done of the tennis courts while out on a walk with Cilei's father and nephew. It rained shortly after we left. 

Tennis court, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026  (No. 5010b)

Urban landscapes São Paulo

Today at lunch hour, I went out to paint some typical urban landscape scenes in the neighborhood. This one shows a gas station near the highway off ramp, with dense and colourful housing in the background. Everything is a little chaotic and noisy here, and the visuals are very busy, which matches the ambiance 

Gas station dense housing, 6 x 7.5" watercolour February 2026 (No. 5025)

 

Looking towards the overpass, you can see the heavy traffic with cars trucks and motorcycles zipping by. In the background, jungle hills have been replaced with built-up housing and condos on the horizon. A factory and warehouse are nestled in among the residential area. Apparently, zoning laws are not really a thing here in Brazil! 

Traffic residential, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5026)

New facility in Park Ipe neighborhood

The house is in Park Ipe neighborhood, once a secluded jungle paradise, now its a bustling city soon to get its own metro (subway) stop. They built a small outdoor workout facility nearby, it has tall trees that drop large leaves on the ground. There are several tables here with tile chess boards part of the concrete surface.  

Chess tables in blue, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5023a)

 

These trees have a blue-grey bark covered in dark yellow and deep green moss. Large leaves were strewn about. Cilei and I tidied up the leaves and picked up some trash before leaving. 

Mossy tree big leaves, 6 x 7.5"  watercolour , February 2026 (No. 5024a)

 

Dotted along the highway are small motels painted in bright colours and decorated with things like hearts or hot peppers shaped like lips. Instead of front doors, they have a large garage door that lets people in from the highway, like a drive through motel? In the background are the tall jungle trees I painted a few days back during sunset. Cars and trucks rumbled by. 

Roadside ♡♡♡ motel, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5023b)

Paulista museum and jungle gardens

Located down town in Paulista neighborhood, this is a side view of the Museu de Arte de São Paulo, MASM. It was built on large support pillars so as the maintain the horizon view, although you don't see the view on this angle. To enter you wait underneath the go up several flights of stairs. We were impressed with the blend of historical and contemporary paintings on the top floor, with modern installations and concept art on the basement floor. Some highlights were a self portrait by Rembrandt, indigenous Brazilian landscapes, and a collection of impressionist art including Van Gogh. There was actually a good variety of every painting era going back to the 14th century. 

MASP side view, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5021b)

 

Across the street is a large park with jungle gardens and a white-tiled network of paths, probably tiled with quartz. We saw a 1971 painting in the museum, and these tiles were around even back then. Over the years, patches of tiles have been lost. The spaces got filled up with dark grey asphalt. Moss and grime have grown over making the path a work of abstract art in itself. You see some of the jungle plants and trees in the background. 

Jungle gardens broken tiles, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5022b)

a few more colourful trees

Trees around the neighborhood here in Brazil are very colourful. In some cases we have similar plants in Canada but they grow indoors and are very small. Like geraniums, I saw them in the tropics once and they were the size of a medium tree. To make the purple colours I used combinations of magenta (PR122) dark blue (PB60) and deep magenta (PV55). 

Magenta purple tree, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5021a)

 

This tree was a type of croton, a popular house plant in Canada, but a 5 meter high tree in Brazil. I suppose many house plants originate from south America, like the snake plants grow wild here at the base of larger trees. They grow in the pockets created by spindly roots with very little soil. 

Croton tree, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5022a)

Full moon, steep road night

The moon was full on February 1st in São Paulo, with overcast conditions I got this view from up near the laundry platform, the moon was surrounded in a fuzzy yellowish halo. First I outlined the scene, then filled in details. When painting the moon, I started with the sky around it and left a circle ... I make the circle big and then adjust the circle until its circular...easier said than done. Then I washed it over with a yellowish glaze (PY43) to give it a fuzzy appearance.

Full moon over Park Ipe, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5020b)

The Park Ipe neighborhood is very hilly. As you can see from this night painting, the road in front of the house is steep. Cars and motorcycles labor to get up the hill which creates loud engine noises. Artificial light was the only source here which made colours odd. There are huge jungle trees in the background, painted as near black silhouettes against a dark blue sky. The tree colour was black (Pbk6) and perylene green (PBk31).

Steep hill night car, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, February 2026 (No. 5019b)

On the way (digital)

On the way to visit family we drove past this scene in their neighborhood. I only got a few seconds to look at it before the car turned left, so this is my best memory, done with Sketchpad app. I mostly used the vintage pen and coarse watercolour tool. It has a colour selection to allow hue saturation and value adjustments. To do the setting sun, I used a similar approach to when I paint, along with the smudge brush. I did half a dozen abstracts yesterday with the app, Ill post those some time. We are going to visit another friend today, Davide who is active on Instagram, he is an art professor. 

On the way 800 x 1200, digital February 2026

Trees and pylons

This tree is growing up in the forest by the house. Its bark is peeling off in great ribbons, leaving a bare surface towards the top. The tree is at least 30 meters high. I used a lot of earth paints for this one like burnt sienna, yellow ochre and raw umber. 

Tree peeling bark, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5019a)

 

We walked up to another park but the main bridge was under construction making it impossible to get in. So we sat in the shade, and I made a painting of  these pylons instead. Using my 'Montreal orange' mix here came in handy...pyrol orange (PO73) with benzi orange (PO62). 

Pylons path, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5020a)

Trees sunset highway

Across the highway there is a row of old growth trees, maybe 10 or 20 stories tall. Its part of the religious convent that was apparently sold to developers. I hope these trees are still here next time we visit. The sun was going down which created some interesting light effects. 

Tall trees smoldering sunset, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5017)

 

Here is the view from the overpass looking northeast, the highway was clogged with noisy smelly traffic which made me feel right at home like back in Montreal. I am quite used to painting rows of cars and highways. In this case, there was a wonderful pastel sunset with tall trees in the background. 

Pastel sunset traffic tall trees, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5018a)

 

I started this one earlier but it rained, so I quickly moved on. The idea was to capture the variety of tree colours and textures in the park across from the house. 

Tree textures study, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5018b)

River falls, insect mound, Indaiatuba

Through Indaiatuba runs a long park next to a river, its more of a water control canal than a river but the city has tried to spruce it up with walking paths, footbridges and landscaped trees. Looking down the slope, I got this view of a small waterfalls and could hear the water splashing. The embankments were heavily eroded, revealing a rusty red-orange earth from below.

River small falls, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5016b)

 

We had seen these large mounds in fields and parks around town, about a meter high, they are probably termite or maybe ant colonies. I wanted to paint one but we were stuck in a car and there wasn't a whole of free time, so I was glad to find one of them in this park. Down the slope is the river, it was at a low point. Later, a massive rain storm arrived and on the way out of Indaiatuba we saw the river really full and flowing.

Insect mound river embankment, 6 x 7.5 watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5015b)

Market banana vendor

Bananas are picked fresh and brought to this street market which we visited on the weekend. Its only open on Sundays, then it moves to other streets. Once a major event, the market's popularity has waned over the years as more people prefer to buy all their food at a major grocery store. At the market, prices can be haggled, and Cilei got some good discounts on bananas. I posted a blog of the banana painting. 

Banana vendor, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5014a)

Flowering trees magenta pink white

Magenta is a rare colour to see in nature, but in Brazil there are large trees filled with magenta flowers. This one had red-magenta I mixed with quin magenta (PR122) tinted with pyrol red (PR254) and dark magenta shadows (PV55). The number codes are for the pigment identification, since different companies use different names I list the pigment codes. 

Magenta flowering tree, 6 x 7.5" cold press, watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5012a)

 

Pink flowers on this tree were very small and in bunches. I mixed dilute pyrol red tinted with quin magenta to get the pink, then applied it in one large blob. Once dry, which happened fast in this heat, I daubed on the green leaves and filled in the rest of the street scene. 

Pink flowering tree gates, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5013a)

 

White flowers adorned this tree, I used a pale grey mix tinted with yellow, blue and a purplish grey, then over painted the foliage. A red car and fortress-like house in the background completes the São Paulo vibe.

White flowering tree, 6 x 7.5" watercolour, January 2026  (No. 5012b)

Chickens and interior scene

On Cilei's land they have chickens running free, we went there with her dad to feed them. They scooted around clucking and warbling as I painted, probably wondering if more food was coming. Their plumage was a variety of beige, orange, grey and black with red crests. Those trees are lemon and lime trees, we picked half a dozen before leaving. 

Chicken run, 6 x 7.5" watercolour January 2026 (No. 5004b)

Inside the small house her Dad built, you see the Montreal-style brick wall she requested. They wanted to plaster over it but the whole dream here was a Montreal-style exposed brick wall. Last time I was here I scraped off paint splatters to make it look nice. The window frames are a stained hardwood, with exposed concrete completing the scene.

Montreal style in Brazil, 6 x 7.5" watercolour January 2026  (No. 5009b)

A few more Grande Praia scenes

 

Praia means beach, grande means large...so this beach-side city is called Large Beach. Being so close to São Paulo makes it a prime weekend getaway location. These flowers were growing on a tree in the sidewalk, they looked delicate like rose petals. Since it was raining I stood under a ledge to complete this one. 

Pink flowering tree, 6 x 7.5 watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5008a)

 

I had  to find a Brazilian dumpster to paint...this one was on the way to the beach in front of a new house being built. It was much smaller than Montreal dumpsters because the trucks and roads are smaller. 

Brazil dumpster yellow, 6 x 7.5.'' watercolour January 2026 (No. 5009a)

 

With steady drizzle I painted fast, its a food cart on the beach in among palm trees. More than just a food cart, its a mobile restaurant run by a local family. They even set up umbrellas and beach chairs. The french fries were excellent and the coconut water was fresh out of a coconut...like they bring you the coconut with a hole in the top and a straw. 

Food cart palm trees, 6 x7.5 watercolour, January 2026 (No. 5007b)

 

Finally some sunny weather on the last day and I did a painting of pigeons on the beach and bright blue Haviana flip flops. 

Pigeons flip flops, 6 x 7.5" watercolour January 2026 (No. 5008b)

Grande Praia beach town

You never knew Montreal had a beach town nearby...just a short cab ride to the airport then watch some in flight movies and you are there! Actually its harder than that but worth the effort...Cilei and her niece arranged the trip and their friend drove her Dad's car. This scene was from the balcony on the first night. There was a disco down on the beach creating a colourful glow in the distance. 

Grande beach night street, 6 x 7.5" watercolour January 2026 (No. 5003b)

 

Looking up the street during the day gave this view of the colourful houses and rolling hills in the background. I used a mix of indo blue (PB60) and yellow (PY154)  to make the hill colours, and allowed some water blurring to create the cloud effects  

Rolling hills clouds, 6 x 7.5" watercolour January 2026 (No. 5005a)

 

Next was an urban scene with some familiar graffiti on a wall. Lush foliage and colourful buildings completed the scene. Like Montreal, this city is slowly gentrifying...the old beach houses and shops circa 1960 are being replaced with soaring sky scrapers surrounded by gates and security. 

Graff wall Brazil, 6×7.5" watercolour January 2026 (No. 5006a)

Finally  back at the São Paulo homestead we spent the afternoon preparing beans from vines. After pulling the beans off we opened them all, tossed them in a big sieve, then cooked and ate them! Not a painting this time, was too busy working on the beans.

Grande beach Atlantic ocean

Close to São Paulo, this beach area got popular in the 1960"s and underwent a massive restructuring a decade ago to accommodate millions of tourists and locals. Now the beach, about 10 kilometers long, is lined with wall to wall condominiums. There is a beachfront road, winding bike path, tiled walkway and a wide beach with soft beige sand. 

Grande beach, 8 x 10" watercolour 2026

The shallow water was pale blue with a tea-coloured tint. Despite being on the Atlantic ocean, it was warm like bath water and pleasant to stand in while waves rolled by. 

Rolling sea, 6 x 7.5" watercolour January 2026 (No. 5007a)

It was fairly crowded considering how large the beach was. People were standing in the water while a few surfers were catching waves. Rolling mountains in the background were typical for this part of Brazil. The drive in and out went along a winding highway that crossed misty valleys, jungle waterfalls and long tunnels. 

Beach crowd, watercolour 6 x 7.5" January 2026 (No. 5006b)